Oil Painting Lesson for Peonies and Asian Vase

Here's a close up of the leaves and table flowers. It's not that noticeable in the photo but I've been enhancing some of the blooms by deepening color and scumbling lites in a a few places. Tips of the petals have more color in them and I've added this in a few places. Often things that are not at first noticeable to you, become more so as time goes by. These less obvious statements can be brought out in later passes.

There's a bit of reflected pink on the side of the vase where the flowers rest against it. I've added that as well. Notice there are no shadows yet on the table top. Generally these are added even before I start a painting, but I opted to use a glazing method to put them in afterwards. I wanted to develop the leaves a bit more before I do that.

So here I've started to add some of the stems and more leaves. In order to differentiate the ones in front from the leaves in back, I've lighted some of the edges on the leaves. I'll refine these even further in the last session.

Notice the cast shadows from the leaves on the table cloth.

I felt that the peony on the left side was a bit too lit up and it was stealing the show from the larger one which is the main focal point of the painting. Even though I loved the way that other peony looked, it's never a good idea to sacrifice an entire painting for the purpose of preserving a single passage. So I mixed a glaze of the Quinacridone Pink with some green and started to knock it down a bit.
Now that the pant is dry on the other flowers, I'm free to add some modeling to some of the petals by adding more lights and darks. The lights are added with mixtures of titanium white which has high tinting strength and small amounts of Naples Yellow or the Quinacridone Pink - depending on what I'm after. If I add a white/yellow mixture, the petal will round outward. If I add a the pink, it will tend to retreat a bit. Not as much as if I cooled the mixture with green, but just enough to turn the petal away from me.

I've also done some more darkening on the apple on the left. The stems and leaves are easier to view here.

Oops. Camera is a bit tilted here. But I think you can get an idea. I've mixed some Ultramarine Blue with some umber to tone it down. A glaze mixture with the use of Maroger Medium was combined and then using a soft sable, I started to lay in the lines for the blue design on the vase. I'm careful here to maintain the structure of the vase which is not quite round, but slightly squared off. The design helps to describe the form.

The paint under the glaze is completely dry so that it's safe to put the glaze on, and if I make a mistake, wipe it out with a brush that has been wet with thinner.
I took the time here to work some more on the petals of the flower resting on the table. I've darkened some of the leaves and created stronger cast shadows from them on the table cloth.

Here I've added more details. The design the top of the vase is done by making a mixture of shadow white with a touch of ultramarine blue. Remember this part of the design is in the shadow.

I've also refined the shape and thickness of the blue lines and darkened the shadow under the vase and some of the other objects on the table.

Viola! Finito la comedia. Or, in other words, done! Much nicer when you get to view the whole piece in one shot.

The final design is in. I've heightened the lights on the vase in a couple of places by scumbling in some lighter mixture here and there. The table top is a bit more lit up where the apples are. I'm also finally happy with the peony that is drooping off to the left. It no longer steals the show and tucks back nicely with some atmosphere around it. I've darkened the table cloth toward the bottom of the picture as well.

Well, the painting is done, signed and for the most part, both the client and myself are happy with it. Hope you like it too. Thanks for stopping by. Remember, in order to see the whole lesson in one easy read, check out the lesson on my website by clicking here.

"Full Bloom"
18" x 24", Oil on Canvas

How to Paint Peonies, Day Four

Today proved to be a trying one. I had contractors, engineers and inspectors banging all over the house and the constant interruptions had me banging my head against the wall and sniffing paint fumes in a vain attempt to escape it all.

But in spite of all the craziness, I did manage to get a few things accomplished. I had the curtain on the French door behind me open and so had a bit of cool light to paint by. Hence the bluish tint on the left side o the canvas. That shouldn't prove to be too much of a difficulty here as I'm illustrating the last of the flowers in this picture.

I re-entered the painting by first giving a slight blue glaze to the background to cool down some of the yellow tint in the umber background. I'm still not sure of the tapestry look and may decide before painting in the leaves to just make the background solid. It feels a bit distracting to me.
After glazing the background, I finished off the last three flowers. These are still not quite done at this point and I'll get back to them before the close of the session. It's difficult to work out all the values on the flowers until their surroundings are painted in.

Time for the apples. I started with their shadows by mixing in a bit of burnt umber and a touch of yellow ochre for reflected light. Then I was on to the shadows of the apples. I started with raw umber and some Cadmium Yellow Light mixed in. This was further toned with a little Cad Red Light. I mixed this lightly with some toned down Thalo Green for the more colorful spots on the apples. A touch of Yellow Ochre and white for the reflected light becomes evident in the next photo.

Note that an object's truest color will be on the turning edge just as the light on the object turns to shadow. The core shadow follows this. It's easiest to remember this by just noting that light washes out color and shadow obscures it.

The lights are added in here with some Cad Yellow Light, white and a touch of umber to tone the brightness (although that's hard to tell from my camera). The reflected lights are more evident here.
I've also painted in the table top, although this too will be brightened eventually. A bit of Yellow Ochre and Burnt Umber with some Naples Yellow lights up the table.

The top right hand corner of the background looks a bit warm here. Some of that may be due to the fact that the cool light from the door behind me is not falling on that portion of the canvas.

In either case, I'll need to reassess in the morning with natural light coming in evenly. I have a skylight just outside the old studio that can be used for this purpose. I use two color corrected Ott Lights additionally, but find that the skylight is best for this. I will be such a boon when the new studio is finished. I have a seven by five foot arched north light window in it. Perfect for this sort of thing.

I've started to put in the shadows for the table cloth. Notice that I've painted out the leaves here. I know where they're going and have decided that it would be best to paint them in over the table cloth. This is always a last minute judgment call for me as I often paint them together with the cloth and background. I've been taking my time here so things are developing a bit differently. Shadow color is a bit of black, Cad Yellow Light and white. I've warmed it a bit with Burnt Umber.

I simplified the table cloth and reworked it several times before I felt I could leave it for a bit and move on to the cut apples. Like everything else, I'll revisit it several times during the next painting session. The cut apples were done much the same as the larger ones. Note that I've gone back and darkened the interior of the other apples.

The lighted table cloth is done with Naples Yellow and White. This is just a slightly warmed mixture of white, not a cooled mixture of yellow. But the temperature difference is enough to make the table top pop. Additionally, I took small amounts and used it on the flowers in a few places where I wanted the light to sparkle on the flowers. That warm light really works against the cooler pink . I know it sounds strange - but remember temperature is relative. My pinks are cool pinks and the white is a warm white.
This is perhaps the best representation of what is happening in the painting thus far. The color is a bit softer in this photo and the contrast not as sharp as in the others.

I deepened the shadows around the flower at the bottom that is drooping off the table edge and heightened the edges so that it stands away from the table cloth. The table cloth and the back of the table itself are softly inferred in the background. A little light peeks in behind the cut apples. I've also taken some Quinacridone Pink glaze and brushing it into the tips of the petals.

There's much I need to do here and I have only three days before they tear into my studio rendering it unusable for a few days. So tomorrow is another day. It's midnight and I've posted this first to my website so I'll copy it over to the blog in the morning. Nighty night.

How to Paint Peonies, Day Two

Well thanks for checking back in today. I actually painted this lesson over two days starting with the background yesterday and continuing with the flowers today. Here we go. If you'd like to read this lesson in a more consistent manner that flows from top to bottom without having to skip around blog style, click here.

The background was the first thing I started on with color. I generally choose an umber background for pink because the slight green tint sets off the pinks in the blossoms nicely. This mix was done with a combination of Burnt Umber and Raw Umber plus a bit of Cad Yellow Light and Naples Yellow. The lighter tones were done with a bit more Naples yellow. I was looking for a light feeling of tapestry here. As the painting develops I continue to work the background. I like to have it slightly wet as I work because that allows me to fade flowers into the background. Again - I apologize for the glare. Not much I can do about it under the circumstances. Each time I pause to take a picture, I have to turn lights on and turn others off. It's a bit tricky and breaks my concentration so I try not to have to do too much in that arena. Also, what looks fine in the camera, often looks quite different once I download the picture.

I worked some darker umber and Ultramarine Blue into the background on the lower left hand side and into the shadows on the tapestry.

For the vase, I used my usual mix of black, Cadmium Yellow Light and white along with a touch of the background color. For the light struck area, I used Cremintz White with a touch of Ultramarine Blue. Some of the shadow color was added as well. This is only a preliminary under painting for the vase.

I vowed this time around that I would try to give more step-by-step on the flowers - so here goes. I used a shadow color which was mixed by combining Quinacridone Red and Cadmium Red Light plus a bit of Cremintz White. The Cremintz White is a very thick impasto white with low tinting strength. Good for low tints and where you don't want to wash out the color. It's also lovely for building impastos.
I brushed this color combo into the areas where the darker richer interiors of the Peony face away from the light. I used a bit of Cadmium Orange to place warmth into those shadows.

When I mix these colors, I try not to over mix them with a palette knife, but instead use my brush and whip them up a bit to where they are delicately blended - like making muffin batter. Too much mixing and the muffins go flat.

For the reflected lights - always a tough call - I used a bit of Quinacridone Pink which has more blue in it. This was mixed with a bit of background color that had been lightened with touches of white to gray it a bit. Shadows are always deeper near to the object which casts them. So I brushed a bit of Raw Umber mixed with Ultramarine Blue into the shadows closest to the Peonies. The vase is still very simple at this point. I'm only suggesting the shape at the bottom where the shadow curves a bit. Later, I'll place some background color to deepen shadows and bring atmosphere forward into the painting. I've also deepened the shadows on the tapestry in the background.

Here's the close up. You can see the brush work is kept light. When painting the inside of a flower, you have to figure that that part of the bloom is receding from you and paint it thinly - just as you would shadows.

Here I've started to put in the highlights on the lit side of the flower. The paint is quite thick. I'm using the same color that I used in the interior passages but lightened with Cremintz White. I'm using a 1/2" DaVinci Filbert Bristle brush. Bristles are best for impasto work because they are just stiff enough to hold the paint.

For the initial strokes I used a 1/4 inch brush but decided that it looked too picky so I changed to a larger one and went to a technique that I'm comfortable with.

I didn't have anyone to take a picture of me laying in the petals so I'll have to describe the technique. After I've loaded the brush, I lay the bristle's at a 30 degree angle to the canvas and starting at the center of the bloom I make the petal using one stroke by pulling the brush outward to circumference of the flower. I apply more pressure at the start of the stroke and lift off the brush at the back end of the stroke. This is a little tricky and takes some practice.
This stroke is more evident in the last two pictures.

Notice that the lights are bright, but there's not enough punch or contrast between them and the shadows. This is because Cremintz is a low tint white. I'll fix that in the end by using a bit of the same color mix but with Titanium White and some Maroger Medium.


I next moved on to the back ground flowers. These were mixed with a bit of Quinacridone Rose which has a bit of blue in it. You can see that color in the flowers facing away from you. Because they are in the background and less distinct, I softened the edges by brushing some of the background into them.

Notice the large bloom in the front and the smaller bloom just behind it. There's not a huge difference in value here so I used a bit of edge control to push the one on the right back by making the edge of the flower in front a bit crisper. I also used little or no detail in the inside of the flower on the right. Less detail, less reason to spend time looking at it. Control your viewer's eyes by the use of edges as well as values.

Notice that I've painted out the leaves. I decided I would rather design them as I go in the last sitting. Those are details that will be a bit demanding and may take more than one sitting to get right so I'd rather not have to paint background around them when I'm done. Instead I'll use some Maroger to oil out the canvas and paint into it with the leaf colors when I'm ready. The background is an easy mix and can also be added if needed at a later point without having matching problems.

OK. I took another shot here to better evaluate the light. For this stage of the painting, I'm satisfied. I can see where I will want to darken some of the flowers on the left. This, however, is best left until they are dry and then I can just glaze into them. I rearranged the shapes of the larger flower and used the larger brush to do the petals. I have two more flowers to paint in the next session and then I want to re-evaluate the background and the overall shape of some of the blooms. Once I've tweaked those, I'll start into the objects on the table.

For the background, I'm considering a glaze with a very thin coat of blue to cool it a bit. I can better evaluate it in the light of day however, and I'll rethink it all in the morning. Good night and I'll continue with you tomorrow. Thanks for stopping by.

How to Paint Peonies

"The Peony Commission"
Working Title

Peonies are such beautiful, lush flowers that it's no mystery that they are loved by nearly all flower aficionados. I received this commission a couple of days ago and thought it might be fun to share the painting process with you.

The size of the painting is 18" x 24" at the request of the client. I sent her three compositional images and she decided on this vertical format. I'm glad because I'm a bit partial to this composition. Mainly this is because I love drama. Even in something as quiet as a still life, there can be great drama.

Notice how the composition is at eye level. You can basically divide the canvas into three areas. Below the table, the top of the table to the Golden Mein (about one third of the way down from the top, and the top one third where most of the flowers reside.
I chose an "S" composition for this floral as I often do in vertical compositions. Notice how the flowers form a backwards question mark or take an actual "S" direction. I chose green apples to offset the prinks in the flowers. I actually added some cut apples to the right after this picture was taken. They become apparent in the painting.

I first prepared the canvas a couple of days in advance by coating it with a thin layer of under painting white mixed with Liquin to help it's drying time. I did this for two reasons: first, I prefer a smooth surface to one with texture and I like the way paint moves on a surface that has been primed with paint. The white under painting will cause the flowers to glow with an appearance of light emanating from within as the painting ages.

When the canvas was dry, I drew with charcoal the actual placement of the major elements and then sprayed the whole thing with a touch of hairspray. Nice to know that stuff is still useful for something.
Next I wiped on a thin layer of Burnt Umber mixed with Quinacridone Orange and then started to lift out the lights. I like this process of under painting because it allows me to make decisions as I go. If something doesn't look right where I've placed it, I can easily move it by painting back into the toned canvas and wiping out the lights elsewhere. But my drawing was good here and I was pretty happy with the way the flowers were placed. I had made some changes to the flowers you see in the photograph until I was happy. Often, I won't see things that need fixing until I start to get things on canvas. That's why I can't work from photos. Things looked flat in the photo I sent to the client but really started to fill out nicely when I started actually lifting out the lights on the canvas.

Here you can see the under painting developed further. I added a bloom or two to the left and filled out some other areas. I moved the flower on the table further to the right and the small one further to the left to bring out more of the "S" shape I was referring to. The large Peony in the top left of center is right about on the intersection of the Golden Mein, the sweet spot of the painting and where I want the viewer's eyes to go. While it takes precedence now, it will be a challenge to keep it's importance once color is added.

I pulled out lights where the light spills from the left across the vase. You might notice now that there is no design on the vase. That's the last thing that gets added to the painting.
I've filled in some leaves and you can see now also where the apples and cut apples fall. I've brushed in some shadows as well to unify the piece.

OK. I'm about done here. The cloth is not quite finished and I'm thinking I'll change quite a bit on there as the painting proceeds. I often move the light source to provide a few shadows and lit parts on the cloth in the front. I don't want to do that until the majority of the painting is done as once the light moves, it's difficult to get things back where they were. While a purist might say that the shadows will not be true to life, an "artist" knows that what works in a painting is not generally true to life in all cases.

I've lightened the background on the right. This will add more depth to the painting later. It won't be bright, per se, but will be a softly shadowed mid tone to allow the flowers to fade into it. The left side will be darker.

All this, mind you, is subject to change. But for the most part, I'm happy with this first stage. Check back tomorrow or the next day to see the next step. Thanks for tuning in.

If the lesson is difficult to follow on the blog, I suggest you click here to follow it on my website where the type flows smoother. Just click on "Peony Commission" when you get there.

Painting Tips on Peonies in Cool Light

"Peonies and Lemons, cool light"
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Suffering from a major headache, I didn't take a lot of pictures today while working. Just pushed through. But I wanted to talk a little bit about this painting because, despite the headache, I really enjoyed working on it today. I started it much the same as I always do with a wash of burnt umber. I knew I wanted a dark background (I'm a sucker for chiarascurro) so I started with my usual base of umber and then added some ultramarine blue to darken it on one side and some naples yellow and raw sienna on the right to lighten it a bit.

The lemons were executed with zinc yellow and bits of black and umber for the shadows. The peonies were simply done and I was amazed at how quickly they popped off my brush. These were done with Alazarin Crimsen, Manganese Violet and touches of cad red light mixed with, of course white. The centers had a bit of cad orange in them. To push the blooms back, I used a bit of the background and some green from the lemons to gray out the reds.

The vase wasn't glazed but instead I just built it out of thick paint and used cobalt blue for the design. I nocked down the white with umber and a bit of naples yellow.

I'm paying a lot of attention to edge control these days and trying to make each brush stroke count. David Leffel says that a poor brush stroke deliberately made is far better than one that has been just splashed on without forethought. I have to agree with this because some of my best work is work that I have been deliberate and totally present for. It's an act of consciousness and a bit of meditation. It takes tons of concentration, and I generally turn off all music in the studio in order to just be present.

I talked about the discipline of "showing up" in one of my posts and today was a good example of that. There are days when the paint just flows off the brush and all the relationships manage to come together. But if you don't show up, it can't happen. I had a miserable headache and the urge to just lie down with a cold compress nearly kept me from walking through the door. I awfully glad I did. This is a beauty of a painting. Painterly but detailed. I love the cool light and feel pretty good about the color relationships as well.

The area of color relationships is another topic altogether. Duane Keiser says, and who am I to argue with the guru, that mixing the right color is pretty much instinctual. It's color relationships that give students the most trouble. I'm not sure if I completely agree with this. I have a couple of students that are really struggling with the issue of temperature. But most do get it pretty quickly. Relationships, though, that's another story. The questions must always be asked when working from life, "is that color warmer or cooler, darker or lighter than the one next to it?" Also, it's not enough to just question the immediate relationship but also how each color affects all the other ones in the painting. What looks fine on the palette often translates to "agh!" on the canvas. I have my students work always with a color wheel next to them.

Enough of these ramblings. I'll be talking more about color relationships and how to better judge them in future posts.

Pink Peonies and Pears, Painting Lesson, 11" x 14"

So here it is Saturday and I bounced out of bed - well nearly, went for my morning walk and came back eager to finish "Peonies and Pears". Not a very inspired title, I'll admit, but when you do as many of these as I do, it's easy to run out of creative ideas for titles.

The first thing I did was mix a glaze of Maroger Medium and Alizarin Crimsen with a touch of Ultramarine Blue. I used this glaze to create the flower pattern on the vase and to deepen the color on some of the petals. It's important to know that form in such a vase takes care of itself once you add the pattern. The pattern or design actually helps to describe the form of the vase. Next I mixed some other glazes for the vase which consisted of Viridian Green with a bit of umber to tone it down. There is also some blue - Cobalt in the flowers as well as yellow. Then using a liner brush, I accented some of the smaller flowers in the design to heighten the sense of detail in the painting.

I used some Naples Yellow and a touch of white to scumble in highlights on the pears (there's a bit of Sienna too) and then used some Naples Yellow, white and Raw Sienna to scumble in highlights on the satin cloth. Some more of the same mixture was used to heighten the stems of the pears and create the stems on the grapes. Lastly, I added a highlight to the vase. Viola! The finished piece. Second session elapsed time, 45 minutes. Phew. The grapes look a bit purple here. Having some trouble with Photoshop today.

"Peonies and Pears"
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Painting Less on Pink Peonies and Asian Vase, 11" X 14"

Pretty huh? This is the set up for my next lesson. Now the challenge is to paint it. I decided that because it's so complex, I would give myself two short sessions for this painting. I also determined that a little glazing was in order for the vase. So I shook out the cobwebs, stirred up some paint and got down to business.

In the photograph on the right, you can see that again, I have transferred a drawing to the canvas and toned it with a little burnt umber. I used acrylic here after fixing the drawing and just applied a light wash. For most of my daily paintings, I use Fredrix unstretched canvas pads. This is not paper, but actual primed canvas. I just tape it to my board. If the painting sells on EBay, then I trim and back it for the customer's convenience. If it fails to sell, I leave a white border and put it in my print bin at the gallery for sale. I only work on hardboard or stretched canvas for pieces I plan to frame.

Using raw umber, I laid in most of the shadow tones. I did this just using a wash to indicate where a shadow will be. Then in the next step (see the photo below right),I used some cadmium yellow and a bit of Naples yellow to cool the umber for parts of the background.

I like to lighten some of the "air" around the flowers as this adds some atmosphere and lends depth to the space. For the cloth, I just indicated where the darker shadows would be. I left them warm in temperature. On the vase, just a thin wash of umber was used to indicate where the shadow pattern would fall. It's important at this step - and the next - to establish the color of the shadows. This is both cast shadow and the mid- tone of the objects themselves. I use a little of the background color in the shadows and objects themselves as this brings atmosphere to the painting and creates color harmony. I've done this in the shadows of the blooms too. Remember that too much color will quickly overwhelm a painting. Grays and subtle tones will make just a small amount of color sing.

I've also used some of the background color to make the shadow side on the vase. I'm using thicker paint on the lighted side of the vase here but I'm mixing some Maroger Medium into it to facilitate drying. I plan on painting the design in glazes on the second pass tomorrow. I've also now added the deeper shadow tones of the flowers - all but obscuring the details of the petals. These were just a guide line for me anyway. To paint each detailed petal would have belaboured the piece. In order to get atmosphere into the pears, I have dragged some of the background color down into them. The grapes, rather dark at this point, were done with some Alazarin Crimsen and a touch of cad red with a drop of ivory black. "Gasp...BLACK????", you ask. Yes black. Where would Valasquez have been without black. Anyway I never NEVER use black in the shadows. I figure what was good enough for Valasquez and David Leffel is good enough for me.

OK. Moving on. Things are beginning to shape up a bit.

I've added more tones to the cloth and have used a bit of raw sienna and cadmium yellow medium, cooled with white to bring out it's lights. Using Alazarin Crimsen and a touch of Cadmium Red Light, I've made two mixtures for the flowers. One lighter and one half-tone. I used a large filbert to do the petals and laid the paint on pretty thick there for texture. I also went back in with a bit of Alazarin Crimsen mixed with some Ultramarine Blue to put some depth on the the flower on the right. I've inceased the volume and height of the top flower as well. You can also see that I've leveled out the vase, smoothing in the highlighted area. It's tough to see it well,here, but I've also added a bit of glow to the grapes. A tiny touch of Cadmium Red Light to the grapes brings out a nice glow. Don't forget that even grapes have turning edges and a core shadow is useful even on a small object like a grape. I've used some warm and cool highlights on the grapes and the tail of a brush to create some texture. The pears are beginning to shape up. I've pushed back the pear on the right and tomorrow will glaze into the one on the left to bring it around to where I want it. Same for the flowers. The paint is quite wet and thick at this point and I need a bit of drying time to glaze into them. Most of my edges, except for the flower on the right, are soft. The pear still needs work. Elapsed time 1.5 hrs. Drop by tomorrow for the finale.

Peonies...Ala Prima and other issues

I've been dealing with a new problem which, for an artist, is a bummer. Dry eye. Seems I've had it for a long time but it never bothered me much. Lately, however, it's causing me to miss full days in the studio. My eyes become so painful, I can't focus them on the subject or the paint. Thought it was the paint fumes, but even when I locked myself out of the studio for a few days, it didn't improve. Medications seem to affect it and I'm on a campaign to find something that will help besides the usual drops and flax seed oil.

OK. Complaints aside, I did manage to get into the studio for a little while. I consider my ala prima paintings to be my day job. Now that's not a bad thing. I enjoy this work and learn a lot from doing it, but I have to work at getting inspired some days. Here's one I did for my daily painting blog and like before, I'll illustrate a little of how I did it.

First, here's the set up.

As usual, I put a little burnt umber gesso on the piece of unstretched canvas (later to be backed on board)and taped off the 11" x 14" format.

As you can see, I just set off the area I wanted to fill using some dark umber

paint. I then started to block in the shadows and the background. I used mixtures of Alazarin Crimson and Cadmium Red Light to make the flower colors. The shadow color here on the blooms was a mixture of Alizarin Crimson and umber with a touch of Ultramarine Blue.

The details were only a matter of putting in the lights. I find that Naples Yellow makes for a brighter white than just white and that it also warms

the pinks other light areas. I tried to keep the paint thick for the lights. In areas where I wanted the flowers to come forward a bit, I pushed the background back by cooling it. I generally use a sort of green umberish background for my still lifes because it gives a feeling of atmosphere. But here I just wanted to try a little color in the background. I captured a bit of atmosphere by using the background color in the vase and the blooms as well. In the photo above, you can barely see the Asian bell starting to appear. I bring it to life in the last step when I lay in the greens and adjust shadows and lights on the table. Here's the final image.

"Peonies and Asian Bell"

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