How to Paint Pink Roses in Two Hours

My deepest apologies for having taken so long to post to this blog again. I've been touring the Mediterranean and before that summer had me in high gear for the festival season. But winter is here again - nearly, and so I'm back to my routine of publishing regularly.

I thought I'd start off with a small painting I did today for Daily Painters. I thought that after a month or so away, it would be really hard to get into the studio, but I found myself getting excited about squeezing out paint as I moved around getting a small set up ready. The construction guys are working on my new studio so it was comforting to push paint around while I listened to the steady drum of hammering on my new roof.

I know that I promised I'd talk about my workshop with David Leffel but I've decided that I'd talk about what I learned as I integrate it into lessons. That way it sticks for me and makes better sense for you. So, let's begin.

Here's the set up.

Sorry that this photo's a bit on the blurry side. Before I left on vacation, I put everything away in anticipation of the construction crew breaking through to the old studio. So much as for construction schedules. I had some trouble locating the tripod. Don't worry - it gets better. Just a reminder to new folks just tuning in for the first time. These shots of the set up are just for your information. I NEVER use photos to paint from in still life. Photos distort and generally mask color and light in disproportionate ways. Shadows are always too dark and lack color and the highlights are always washed out. Texture all but disappears. I always work from life when I can, and I encourage and teach all my students to do the same.

I kept the setup simple here because I needed to ease back into the painting process after a month away. In the next photo, you can see how I blocked in the basic shapes. I sort of drew the composition in with raw umber and then filled in the shadow areas with umber to get an idea of the composition and how I wanted to fill the space.

After I did this little sketch, I decided that the whole thing needed to be moved down a bit and when I started to fill in the background, I did so. I used a combination of Thalo Blue, Ivory Black and Raw Umber to work in the darker areas of the background. The same combo with more white and Naples Yellow was used for the lighter area.

You can see that I haven't yet moved things down here, but it becomes evident in the next photo.

David Leffel prefers filbert bristles and that's a big change for me. I have traditionally preferred to use sables and still do for the smoothing of a background. But here you can see that I am using a palette knife which is another of David's favorite tools. I am quite enjoying the mastering of this tool and find that it works very well for helping me to attain the texture I desire on my vases.

To turn the vase, I used more of the background color with a bit of Ultramarine Blue. I darkened it a bit more with Ivory Black and used it along the core shadow. This added some drama to an otherwise ho hum set up. For the vase itself, I used white, some of the Thalo Blue and a big of Naples yellow. I didn't mixed the color evenly but just jostled it a bit with my brush to give a more interesting mixture. Then after using a brush in a cross wise (across the form) motion, I then turned to the palette knife to bring in texture. Notice the reflected light on the shadow side. Just a slightly lighter mixture.

I find students get all tied up over what "color" to make the reflected light. I'm a bit like David here in that I use color on colorlessness as my MO. That means that I don't dither too much over the dead areas but keep them simple. You can choose to add some color in the reflected light areas but they should be kept generally cool in temperature. Shadows should be warm. I laughed at the workshop when I heard David say to a student, "cool light, warm shadows; warm light....uh...warm shadows." Shadows just look a lot better when they are warm. If you are using blue in your shadows, use a warm blue - one that has red in it to warm it. Here on the cloth, I used some of the background color neutralized with raw umber to warm it a bit. I felt OK using that blueish tone because there was so much of it in the background and vase already that it made sense to use it in the shadows.

For the cloth, I used a touch of the background color with Ivory Black, a tiny bit -TINY - of Cadmium Yellow and a touch of white for the shadows areas. Some warmth was added in areas with some Yellow Ochre ans white. The light areas of the cloth were done with white and Naples Yellow. I used a palette knife in places to build up the highlights.

For the table top I used a bit of Burnt Umber, white and Cadmium Yellow Light for the top and for the sides, just Burnt Umber. I kept the brush work loose and strove to keep it light. Next, on to the roses.

I like to use quinacradone colors for my pink or red flowers because the color is very intense and doesn't get washed out with white as do the Cadmium reds. I used Daniel Smith Quinacradone Pink for the base color of the roses and then I added mixture of Cadmium Orange and Cadmium Yellow Deep to it to bring out the coral color in the roses.

While it looks like there's a lot going on in these flowers, their construction was really quite simple. I used a medium size filbert and brushed in the center color. A couple of strokes was all it took to make the petals. Where I wanted a petal to turn or an edge to come forward, I piled on the paint, made the edge sharper and sculpted the paint. I use Maroger Medium for this as it allows me to retain brush strokes and build the paint up. I grayed out the pink with an addition of background color (it looks more blue here than green due to the thalo, but in reality it has more of a green cast which neutralizes the pink in the flowers and makes for a good shadow.

In the last photo and the finished painting below, you can see the leaves were worked in last. I used Thalo Blue and Cadmium Yellow Light with touches of Naples Yellow here and there. For the darkest parts of the leaves, I mixed the color with a touch of Ivory Black to strengthen the darks and shadows. Let me emphasize the fact that when I use Ivory Black, these are just little dabs of this neutral. Ivory Black has a lot of blue in it and can actually be used in some paintings as blue if properly painted alongside colors of more neutral or warm tint. Try making a lovely green by adding some Cadmium Yellow to Ivory Black. You couldn't do that if it didn't have blue in it. You just don't want to overdue the black or use it by itself for shadows. It would deaden the space. Shadows should have some color or light breathed into them. That's why I use Cadmium Yellow in my shadows. The last thing I did here was to add more Naples Yellow to the background to liven it up and some pure Quinacradone Pink and Alazarin Crimson in the center of the flowers. A quick little warm up to get back into the flow of paint. Any questions, just post them here and I'll answer them for you so everyone gets to see the answers. Thanks for tuning in!